GR20

The northern section (Calenzana to Vizzavona) is consistently rated as one of the most technically demanding long-distance trails in Europe. Involves prolonged scrambling on steep granite, exposed ridges, chains and fixed cables on near-vertical rock faces, and sustained navigation on rough unmarked terrain. The southern section is less technical but still demanding. Since the 2015 closure of the Cirque de la Solitude (where fatal accidents occurred), the rerouted section remains challenging. Previous alpine hiking and scrambling experience is essential; the trail is genuinely dangerous for unprepared or unfit hikers. Not a first-time mountain hike.

Marked with red-and-white GR waymarks throughout, but these can be hard to spot on rocky terrain in poor visibility. The trail frequently passes through granite boulder fields where the path is not obvious. A detailed topo map (IGN 1:25,000) and compass are essential. Some sections require route-finding across bare rock between waymarks. Conditions and some variant routes are not reflected in older guidebooks.

Almost entirely on bare granite, scree, boulder fields, and loose rock — there is very little soft path. The sustained rocky terrain is energy-sapping with a heavy pack and demands precise footwork all day. The heat in July and August on south-facing slopes can be extreme (35°C+). The combination of technical terrain, heat, and daily stages of 6–10 hours makes this one of the most physically punishing trails in Europe.

No hiking permit required. The GR20 lies entirely within the Parc Naturel Régional de Corse. All camping must be within designated sites adjacent to refuges; unauthorised camping anywhere else carries fines.

Calenzana is ~15km from Calvi airport (CLY), served by flights from Paris, Nice, and Marseille. Taxi or shuttle from Calvi to Calenzana. Conca is served by a shuttle (navette) to Sainte-Lucie-de-Porto-Vecchio, then bus north to Bastia or Ajaccio. Figari airport (FSC) is the closest to Conca. Car hire in Corsica is useful for exploring after the hike but long-term parking at trailheads is impractical given the linear route.

The GR20 has an intensity that sets it apart from almost every other trail in Europe. The combination of extreme terrain, heat, cash-only economy, and genuine physical suffering creates a shared experience that bonds hikers quickly and deeply. The refuges buzz in the evenings with people comparing notes, tending blisters, and drinking local Corsican wine. The landscape is spectacular in a way that feels almost aggressive — vertiginous granite spires, electric-blue mountain lakes, the smell of maquis scrubland, and sudden panoramic views out to the Mediterranean. Corsica itself rewards those who linger: extraordinary beaches, food (charcuterie, brocciu cheese, chestnut everything), and a fierce, proud culture. The GR20 is a serious undertaking, not a casual holiday — but completing it ranks among the great achievements available to a hiker who does not climb.

The GR20 is genuinely dangerous for unprepared hikers. Serious and fatal accidents occur every season. The northern section involves exposed scrambling where a fall has severe consequences. Afternoon thunderstorms develop rapidly and strike ridgelines with little warning — always check morning forecasts at refuges and plan stages to be off high ground by early afternoon. Rescue by helicopter is possible but expensive and weather-dependent. An emergency contact plan and ideally a satellite communicator are strongly recommended. Over 50% of hikers who start do not complete the full route.